I've made a lot of leather tote bags over the years. And I've also watched people struggle to choose one that'll actually last. Here's the thing: not all leather tote bags are created equal, and a high price tag doesn't always mean high quality.
Whether you're shopping for your first leather tote bag or replacing one that didn't quite cut it, these seven questions will help you separate the keepers from the regrets. I use these same criteria when I'm designing and building bags in my workshop (and other handmade leather goods), so I know they matter.
1. What Type of Leather Is It Made From?
This is the foundation of everything. The leather quality determines whether your tote will develop a beautiful patina over the years or fall apart after a few months.
When I'm selecting leather for our Rustic Tote leather tote bag, I look for full-grain or top-grain leather. Full-grain is the absolute best: it's the top layer of the hide with all its natural character intact. It'll show scratches and marks, but that's part of its charm. Over time, it develops this rich patina that you just can't fake.
Top-grain leather is also solid. It's been lightly sanded to remove imperfections, so it has a more uniform appearance. It's still durable and will last you years.
Here's a quick test when you're shopping: Press your finger into the leather. Quality leather should wrinkle slightly and bounce back. If it feels stiff like plastic or has a harsh chemical smell, walk away. Good leather has a natural, earthy scent and a soft, flexible feel.
I always use hand-selected leather for my bags because I want each one to age gracefully and actually get better with use. That's what leather should do.
2. How Are the Handles Constructed?
People often overlook handles until they've been carrying a loaded bag for twenty minutes and their shoulder is screaming. Trust me: handles matter more than you think.
When I build handles for the Rustic Tote, I want to see reinforced stitching where the handles attach to the bag body: not just a single line of thread, but multiple passes or even rivets for extra security.
Check the drop length too. That's the distance from the top of the bag to the top of the handle. You should be able to comfortably sling the bag over your shoulder, even when you're wearing a winter coat. A drop length between 8 and 12 inches usually works for most people.
Look for handles that are rolled or have finished edges. Cheap bags often have handles that feel hollow or flimsy. Quality handles have weight to them and feel substantial in your hand.
3. What Will You Actually Use This Bag For?
This might seem obvious, but I've seen people buy gorgeous totes that don't match their lifestyle at all.
Are you hauling a laptop to work every day? Then you need a bag with enough structure to protect it and ideally a padded compartment. Planning to use it for weekend getaways? Go bigger and simpler: you don't want a million pockets getting in the way when you're trying to pack quickly.
For everyday errands and casual use, something like our Rustic Tote works beautifully because it's versatile. It's roomy enough for a day's worth of stuff but not so massive that it becomes a burden.
I designed the Rustic Tote with versatility in mind. It handles a trip to the farmers market just as well as it handles a day at the office. That's the kind of flexibility that makes a tote worth investing in.
4. Is the Size Right for Your Needs?
Size is where a lot of people miscalculate. They either go too big (and the bag looks empty and sad when they're just carrying essentials) or too small (and they're constantly playing Tetris with their belongings).
Think about what you carry on a typical day. Phone, wallet, keys, water bottle, maybe a book or tablet? Add it all up. Then add a little buffer for those days when you need to throw in extra stuff.
For a work bag, you're typically looking at dimensions around 15-18 inches wide and 12-14 inches tall. That's enough for a laptop, a notebook, lunch, and your personal items without being unwieldy.
The Rustic Tote sits right in that sweet spot. It's generous enough for daily needs but not so large that it's difficult to manage. I've had customers tell me they love that it doesn't swallow their stuff: you can actually find things without digging.
5. What's the Stitching Like?
Stitching is one of those details that separates bags that last from bags that don't. I hand-stitch most of my leather goods because I can control the tension and ensure every stitch is perfectly placed.
Look for tight, even stitches with no loose threads. The thread should be thick and durable: not the thin stuff you'd use for lightweight fabric. Saddle stitching (where two needles work from opposite ends) is the gold standard because if one stitch breaks, the whole seam doesn't unravel.
Check the stress points especially: where the handles attach, along the bottom seams, and at the corners. These areas take the most abuse, so they need reinforced stitching. I usually add extra passes through these spots on the Rustic Tote for added durability.
If you see glue holding major seams together instead of stitching, that's a red flag. Glue can fail over time, especially with weight and movement.
6. Does It Have the Organization You Need?
This is totally personal. Some people love a bag with a pocket for everything. Others (like me) prefer a simple open design where you can see everything at a glance.
For work bags, I recommend at least a few interior pockets: one zippered pocket for valuables and a couple of slip pockets for your phone and keys. A dedicated laptop sleeve is crucial if you're carrying electronics.
For casual use, you might want something simpler. The Rustic Tote has a streamlined interior that doesn't overcomplicate things. There's enough organization to keep you from losing your keys in the depths, but it's not so compartmentalized that you feel restricted.
One thing I always insist on: a secure closure. Whether it's a zipper, magnetic snap, or buckle, your bag should close properly. An open-top tote might look stylish, but it's an invitation for things to fall out or for someone to reach in.
7. Who Made It and Do They Stand Behind It?
This question matters more than you might think. A reputable maker uses quality materials and takes pride in their work. They'll also back up their product if something goes wrong.
When you're shopping, look for brands that share their process. Do they show you where their leather comes from? Do they explain their construction methods? Transparency is usually a good sign.
Read reviews, but look for specific details. "Great bag!" doesn't tell you much. "I've carried this daily for two years and it still looks amazing" tells you everything—especially when people mention how well it holds up compared to other handmade leather goods they've tried.
I stand behind every bag I make. If a customer has an issue, I want to know about it so I can make it right. That's how it should be. Your leather tote is an investment, and the maker should treat it that way.
The Bottom Line
A quality leather tote bag will cost you more upfront, but it'll save you money in the long run. I've seen people go through three cheap bags in the time one well-made tote stays strong.
When I'm crafting a Rustic Tote, I think about these seven questions with every single step. What leather will age beautifully? How can I reinforce these handles so they never fail? Will this size work for real life, not just Instagram photos?
That's the difference between a bag you'll use for a season and a bag you'll carry for decades.
Take your time when you're shopping. Feel the leather. Examine the stitching. Think about how you'll actually use it. And don't be afraid to ask questions: any maker worth their salt will be happy to talk about their craft.
Thanks for letting me share what I've learned over the years. If you're in the market for a tote that's built to last, check out what we're making. And if you have questions about choosing the right bag for your needs, you can always reach out.